Domaine Georges Michel - Viognier 2009 and La Reserve Syrah 2008
Georges Michel has an established reputation for the production of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Not surprising considering his French background and his Marlborough location. But two new varieties released by the company, although French in origin, are not usually associated with Marlborough; Viognier and Syrah
Viognier is gaining a loyal following in recent times, perhaps as a contrast to the acidic notes found in Sauvignon Blanc or as alternative to Chardonnay. Winemaker Swan Michel comments that in the Viognier 2009 wine she has aimed for a little texture to balance the refreshing acidity by using barrel fermentation and aged for eight months in sesoned oak. "It combines subtle oak aromas with attractive lime and musky apricot characters and a long floral lift."
The La Reserve Syrah from 2008 has been made using traditional Rhône Valley techniques and following daily plunging in open top fermenters has been aged in French oak (50% new) for thirteen months. "Look for delightful red berry aromas, a touch of spice, white pepper and chocolate with smooth texture and ripe tannins" says Swan.
Framingham F-Series
AAndrew Hedley has launched a new series of Framingham wines under a new F-series label in which he has deliberately sought to push the boundaries mof Marlborough winemaking.
His passion for the aromatic varieties is well known - it is for these that Framingham is most celebrated - so it is not ? of the six new wins, five are from the aromatic varieties with Pinot Noir making up the range.
In the F series Andrew says that he has striven to experiment with all facets of the winemaking process. As a result the Framingham F-series Old Vine Riesling 2009, sourced from\the estate's oldest vines, has had 20% fermented oak and aged on full lees for eleven months. "Which may have subdued the floral but has added some nutty textural elements" says wine judge Raymond Chan. Likewise the Framingham F-series Marlborough Riesling Auslese 2009, unusually, has had portions fermented in old oak and includes 305 of botrytis-infected fruit.
The F-series Gewürztraminer, made from dehydrated and raisined berries, has also had oak fermentation but the botrytis contribution has been held at around 30%. "A privilege to taste let alone drink," says Raymond.
The range also includes a Sauvignon Blanc that has been wild fermented in old wood, a Viognier aged on full ferment lees for ten months and Pinot Noir that has been oak-aged for fifteen months.
The wines are made in very small quantities (only 150 bottles of the Pinot for example) and Andrew says they may not be made every year. The wines represent a dramatic expression of what Marlborough can produce and while they reflect Andrew's desire to push the boundaries of winemaking ("We made them because we wanted to") they certainly represent a serious development of the styles that Marlborough can produce.
Ataahua - a New Label from Waipara
Stephanie Henderson-Grant and Andrew Grant purchased part of the Waipara Springs vineyard in 1995 have now released their own wines from the vineyard.
Ataahua appropriately translates from Maori as ‘Beautiful' or ‘picturesque' and Stephanie's aim as winemaker is to make wines that reflect the beauty of their location.
The range consists of a Gewurztraminer from 2009 ($20), a Sauvignon Blanc from 2009 ($20), a Merlot from 2008 ($26 ) and a 2008 Pinot Noir ($34). Already the wines are receiving good reviews. Bob Campbell MW commented on the Gewurztraminer's "concentrated Turkish delight and orange blossom flavours, lovely fruit purity and a lingering finish" while Sam Kim of Wine Orbit remarks on the "beautifully harmonised acidity and a lingering crisp finish" of the Sauvignon Blanc. Wines from Dhall & Nash Fine Wines.
Stephanie recommends matching the Merlot's ripe blackberry and plum flavours, hints of leather and liquorice with a casserole or a winter lamb roast.
The Ataahua Pinot Noir 2008 tasted in this issue prompted comments on the "big, lush, pure and ripe with a hint of mint and lots of spicy oak; really drinkable with good weight, not to big, not too light."
Soljans Estate Late Harvest Riesling 2009: $19 - 22
Every year Soljans of Kumeu celebrate their Croatian heritage with the Berba Croatian Harvest Festival which recognises the achievements of the many Croatian settlers who came to this part of the country in the early part of last century, many of whom turned their hand to winemaking.
As can be imagined the festival offers music and dancing, Croatian wine and food, olive oil tasting and winery tours and there's always the opportunity to foot stomp grapes if you want to get close up and personal!
This year they released their first ever Late Harvest Riesling at the festival, a wine that sits in good company with the company's two other sweeter wines, the Fusion Sparkling Muscat and a Tawny Port.
"We've often been asked to make a still, sweet table wine to match the other two" says Tony Soljan, "And this Late Harvest Riesling from the 2009 vintage of the Alma vineyard in Marlborough really fills the gap. It's rich and sweet on the palate and is a perfect match with fruit desserts but is just as well suited to medium strength cheeses."
The wine is available from the winery and is served in their on site restaurant but can also be found in selected fine wine outlets.
Mt Beautiful Pinot Gris 2009: $24
The Teece family vineyards of Mt Beautiful are situated in the Cheviot Hills some 70 kms north of Waipara and US based Kiwi academic David Teece and his winemaker Sam Weaver have already produced Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling from the 2008 vintage. Pinot Gris has now been added to the portfolio.
Sam reports that the region missed the rain that affected some of Marlborough past year and as a result experienced a surfeit or warm dry weather.
The Pinot Gris grapes were hand picked and Sam comments that the resulting wine is off dry, full bodied with the characteristic characters of pears accompanied by spiced almonds and a creamy mouth-feel that is enlivened by the crispness of wild plums.
Tupari Pinot Gris 2009: $29
Glenn Thomas is best known for his pioneering wines at Vavasour from 1988 onwards but while he remains Vavasour's chief winemaker he has now partnered with the Turnbull family to create his own personal label from fruit fromt their vineyard in the Upper Awatere.
Glenn has now followed Sauvignon Blanc with Pinot Gris. "The season was warm and dry so fruit reached optimum ripeness and we managed cropping levels to get concentrated, rich flavours." says Glenn. "Look for a rich, ripe style with characters of pear juice and a hint of spice."
Glenn recommends matching it with Japanese food such as a salmon and kingfish carpaccio sashimi. "Or perhaps a spicy yakisoba stir fry."
